This rather new home needed another 6” of insulation. On inspection of the attic, we found some spots where that the existing blown material was being blown away from the top plate from the soffit vents. We installed DuroVents and used fiberglass batt to stop air flow from blowing loose material away from the top plate.

Access holes lose energy unless they are properly insulated. We demonstrated how to prep an access hole to both prevent attic material from falling back into the house and to properly seal from energy loss.

Finally, we added 6” of blown fiberglass to the existing insulation.

Within 1 hour and a half, we were able to train him on the technique of wall spray, maintenance of the CM2400, dense packing an existing wall.

Wall spray requires a bit of fine tuning with the machine settings, water pressure and spraying technique. Below are some pictures of the training in action.

Preventing Issues

Before we look into maintaining and fixing the CM1500, it is critical to consider the following so that you can prevent issues that create problems:

• Always use the right gauge of electrical cord to power your machine. It is tempting to use 100’ long standard extension cords to power the machine. While they will provide enough power to make the machine work, these extension cords build up heat and electrical resistance. Over time, this heat WILL damage the electrical components of your blowers and agitators. We recommend a 12 gauge wire to power the machine.
• Take great caution when you shovel material back into the machine. Material spills are notorious for hiding utility knives, nails and other foreign object which can damage the airlock seals. Be careful that the material you place into the machine is free of these objects.
• Consider using a lanyard for utility knives. I have yet to meet an insulator who has not lost a utility knife into the hopper. These can damage the airlock seals. Use a piece of string to prevent your loader from losing his knife in the hopper.

Cleaning the CM1500

We highly recommend emptying your machine of all material on a daily basis. Yet, we understand the reality of normal working conditions. We have protected the steel components with a powder-coated finish to prevent corrosion. Damp materials, left in the machine, over time, can degrade the lifespan of your machine. We recommend, before storing the machine after each day’s work, to clean out the material.

Those who perform wall spray will certainly want to empty their machine of the damp cellulose as it becomes corrosive.

To clean your machine, consider doing one of two things:

• Blow excess material into the attic at the end of your job. With our three-way remote, when the hopper empties, you are able to stop the agitator and let the blower continue to push the remaining material out of the airlock and hose.
• If your hopper is full, then leaving dry material in your machine for a few days will not compromise the life-span of your machine.
• If you do not use your machine on a daily basis, we strongly recommend that you empty your machine. A couple of 50 gallon garbage bags will provide ample storage for a full hopper. You are able to remove the material easily by loosening the quick connectors and removing the hopper to scoop the remaining material out from between the augers.

Maintaining the CM1500

Air Filter

Every machine has easy to remove dust filters located on the back of the unit. They are 3/4” thick, blue mesh filters that slip into a slot. No tools are necessary to remove or insert them. These filters must be cleaned frequently to allow the blower motors to easily bring in air.

The filter must be cleaned regularly when on job or when a significant build-up is noticed. Just brush a broom over the filter whenever the opportunity arises. Preferably when machine is shut down so you don’t drive the dust further into the filter from the blower suction. Filters are washable and can be more thoroughly cleaned by rinsing under sink faucet once a month. When using compressed air or water faucet, drive fibers from the inside surface outward.

For contractors who permanently keep their CM1500 mounted in a truck or trailer, Cool Machines offers an optional filter cover which lets you connect a 3” hose to go through the floor or wall of your transport. This eliminates the need to clean filters as the machine breathes from outside the dusty environment of a trailer/truck.

Augers and Shredders

Foreign debris is a common problem. Some, inferior cellulose products, contain pieces of plastic wrapping and assorted materials. Those loading the hopper, on occasion, will inadvertently drop plastic wrappings into the unit. Inspect the augers to make sure they are free of this debris.

Bearings

Lubricate the bearings every 3 months with Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 (GLC). The bearings are easily accessible. Two bearings are external. Three bearings are under the safety cover which is easily removed with two screws.

Chain

We use a nickel-plated, corrosion resistant chain. Even though it is a sturdy chain, make it a practice to do the following once a month to keep it in prime condition:

• Check the chain tension and keep it very taught.
• Lubricate every 3 months w/ ‘non-sticky’ lubricant. Note: a regular oil will cause excess fiber to stick and build-up on chains. Some of our customers use a motorcycle chain lube. Cool Machines uses Moly Chain lubricant, Grainger part# 5PE62.

Airlock Seals

Visually inspect the seals. Foreign objects can tear the seals. Tears allow air to escape back into the hopper resulting in diminished p.s.i. for dense packing and loss of production rate (bags per hour) on attics.

A Video on Maintaining the CM1500

InsulationMachines.net is paired with a certified electrical motor service which brings decades of experience to repairing all kinds of motors. Older insulation machines often have proprietary motors which are no longer made. Recondition your old machine with a newly rewound motor.

Terms for our repair service

• $35.00 inspection fee which is waived upon quoted, and approved repair. Contact Barry for more information.

Blown Fiber Materials are Designed to be Packed

Cellulose, fiberglass and far less common, rockwool are all designed to be packed. When insulating material is not packed, it loses insulating performance. A recent study contrasted the difference between a wall that was gravity “packed” and one that was dense packed to 3.5 psi. The results are not surprising. The dense pack wall outperforms the gravity “packed” wall.  Why? Note the difference in insulating an existing wall.

Gravity “Packing”

The  word “packing” has quotes because this technique does not really involve packing. A hole is drilled into the uppermost part of the wall cavity. The insulator blows the material into the cavity, allowing the material to naturally fall into the cavity. The material fills the cavity, but there is no measurable packing density.

Unfortunately, this technique is quite popular. Even respected home remodeling shows demonstrate this technique. Will it improve an existing house’s insulating performance? Sure. But the insulating performance is inferior to the technique below. If the home has a brick exterior, gravity packing is nearly the only option. That is, unless the homeowner lets you drill holes inside their homes.

Problems with this technique:

• These cavities are inconsistently packed. There is no measurement of the density of the material falling into the cavity, so there is no way an insulator can control the flow of material. There is a lot of guess work. The wall cavity, at the hole will be packed with greater density than the rest of the cavity.
• These cavities often have voids. When the falling material hits a wire or plumbing that intersects the cavity, the material sometimes clumps on top of the obstruction and prevents a complete filling of the cavity.
• Fiber materials are prone to settling—cellulose especially. When installing loose fiber into a cavity, the air is increased to prevent hose blockages. After installation, the material will eventually settle, leaving a void at the top of the cavity.

Dense Packing

The best insulating standards involve packing fiber material with a minimum of 3.5 psi. Typically, a hole is drilled at the bottom of the wall cavity ¹. The insulation hose is reduced down to 2,” 1.5” or even 1.25” A clear vinyl tube is inserted into the hole. This hose is 10 feet long and allows the insulator to insert it into the cavity all the way to the top sill plate which guarantees that the insulation will not get hung up on obstacles. As the insulation packs into the cavity, the operator can see the material flow stop in the tube and will pull it out as it continues to pack the cavity.

The Cool Machine brand, has a gauge on the airlock which will give the installer a definitive PSI setting.

Advantages of this technique:

• The insulation is installed with a consistent density. The material at the top, middle and bottom of the cavity will have the same density.
• There is no guess work. The insulator will confidently be able to fill the cavity, knowing that there are no voids.
• The fiber materials, having been packed into the cavity, will not settle.
• The insulation performs to its full potential.

Footnotes

• Foam: Foam is a superior sound BARRIER product, however, it does not ABSORB sound. In fact, it amplifies noises within a structure.
• Rockwool: Rockwool is used in many professional sound studios because it creates a great BARRIER and it is a great ABSORPTION product. Typically, Rockwool can be found in sheets of various thickness which can be cut to fit the space. It is made up of industrial furnace slag and is fireproof.
• Cellulose: Cellulose is a great sound BARRIER product AND it is a great sound ABSORBTION product when it is installed into a wall cavity with a 3.5 (or greater) PSI density.
• Hybrid Foam/Cellulose: A recent trend is to spray a skim coat (1-2”) of foam into a cavity and then to fill the rest of the cavity with cellulose. This technique works very well. It provides a great BARRIER against outside noises while providing a sound ABSORBTION for the inside.
• Fiberglass: Like cellulose, is a great sound BARRIER and great sound ABSORBER when it is installed into a wall cavity with a 3.5 (or greater) PSI density or in high density batt form. ¹
• Air: Yes, air is a key component to creating a superior BARRIER. Some buildings have two walls with a gap between them. The isolated air pocket prevents the transmission of sound. Apartment buildings and hotels typically have two walls between each living compartment. Each wall is insulated with roughly a 2” gap between both.

The following X-Y graph shows where the materials roughly the best typical materials/techniques relating to both BARRIER rating (STC)² and ABSORBTION rating (NRC) ³.

Footnotes

When adding an internal wetting system, you will need to minimize the build up of damp fibers in the hose. We accomplish this in two ways:

• You will need a double-blower machine. The extra air reduces progressive build-up of fiber and gives you an extended range with damp fibers. You should be able to get at least 80% production rate at 150 ft. of hose with this IWS system and double blower feature.
• Another aspect of reducing the plugging in an internal wetting system (IWS), would be going from a 3" hose up to a 4" IWS tube and hose for several feet then reducing back down to 3" for the remainder of your hose length.

Setup Option 1: Connecting to an on-site water source using a standard garden hose

• A: Water supply from either a hose bib or water tank
• B: Power supply: This plugs into the circuit panel on the machine labeled IWS. The power automatically turns on and off with the blower.
• C: Double jet: Two jets introduce a mist of water to the cellulose in a cast aluminum coupler.
• D: A section of 3” hose from the machine, increasing to a 4” hose, then back down to a 3” hose.

Setup Option 2: Carrying water in a storage tank in a truck

• A: Internal Wetting System
• B: Water Pump
• C: 100 gallon Water tank
• Inset: Double blower (identified by two blower controls), and specially wired outlet for the IWS which is synchronized with the blower to start and stop water spray

Not all insulation machines are created equal. This article is a complementary article to: What Sets Cool Machines Apart from the Competitors. I am NOT about making negative statements regarding other competitors. I believe that highlighting the negatives of other insulation machine manufacturers serves no good purpose. Besides, why should you believe me? Let me highlight the POSITIVE strengths of our machines.

Corrosion and Wear Resistant

Industrial-grade Steel: While the weight of a machine is always a consideration, especially for portable units, we do not sacrifice the quality of build for weight. The Cool Machine brand has struck an excellent balance between strength and weight in its design. Cool Machines uses industrial grade steel, not light gauge steel. The hopper and airlock take constant abuse. The steel we use handles the wear and tear of a variety of insulation products. Unfortunately, the internet does not give you the ability to handle a machine side-by-side. So, the best way to describe our machine is to contrast the lightweight 2012 toolbox to one made in 1940. With decades of industrial machine engineering experience, Cool Machines will provide you with a long-lasting machine. It may be the last machine you ever need.

Powder-coated: The hopper, base, airlock, protective shields, moving parts, and all structural steel is powder coated. Cellulose is corrosive when wet/damp. Powder coating provides a harder more durable surface protection than a sprayed on epoxy. Besides, powder is safe for the environment. Add to that: our machines look very nice for a long time.

Nickel Plated Corrosion Resistant Roller Chain: A reliable chain is key. The scalping auger is chain driven. The environment that these chains work in is rugged. Corrosion is a chain’s worst enemy. The nickel plating protects the chain from the elements.

Rugged, Agricultural Grade Parts

The agitator motors are farm-grade components. They are designed to work in the harshest, extreme environments. Agricultural-grade components double the typical service life of motors in its class. A farm duty motor has better endurance in harsh outside environments and has a higher torque rating for frequent starts and stops under a load.

Redundant Circuitry Protection

Weather and extended use can create a build-up of damaging heat¹. The electrical components of the Cool Machine are protected by redundant circuitry protections.

Circuit Panel: Power trips are inevitable and unintentional. What is intentional is having a machine with easy-to-find circuit breakers. These fuses prevent damaging power surges to the internal circuitry. These breakers are within clear view of the operator so minimal time is wasted on the job-site.

Redundant Overload Circuit: In the event that a power surge pushes past the circuit panel, the agitator motor has an embedded breaker of its own.

How to set a Cool Machine’s PSI

Every Cool Machine has an airlock with a pressure gauge. A green indicator marks the acceptable dense pack ranges (3.5 to 4.0 PSI).

All you need to do is attach the amount of hose you need¹ for your particular job. Place the end of your hand over the end of the hose to cuff the air. Turn the blower on and using the variable control blower dial turn it up or down to gain the right pressure.

That is all! No special tools, measuring devices are needed. You get the exact pressure every time!

Choosing the Right Material for Dense Pack

Whether you use cellulose, fiberglass or rockwool, there are no special materials for dense packing. Companies tout particular material for various applications, however, standard insulating materials are sufficient. With dense packing, your concern is packing the material in at the correct PSI. When doing so, it does not matter whether you use a stabilized product or not. Do not concern yourself with paying for expensive products that include starch. Those materials create more dust and do not perform unless they are activated by water. Additionally, they are more expensive.

Some companies require certification training so you can use their product for dense packing. I do not make it a practice to speak negatively about any particular brand of insulation or machine. Therefore, I will not name them here. Just be aware that dense packing does not require any special certification. Maybe to use someone’s particular product, you need to pay for their training, however there are plenty of products available to all contractors whether you have training or not.

We have seen particular contractors require a brand-name system. Unless you can convince the contractor otherwise, you will have to meet their demands to win their project. Also, you may need certifications to perform certain government-sponsored jobs. However, generally-speaking, you do not need specialized certification.

Dense Packing in New Construction

Whether you use cellulose or fiberglass, the method is the same. You need to create a temporary “wall” to hold the insulating material in place and to resist bulging.

When using cellulose, you will definitely want to use a fabric material (i.e., Insulweb or IC Pro Pack). These fabrics are very sturdy and will prevent bulging when the appropriate PSI is used when dense packing. You will need to affix the fabric to the wall, using a pneumatic stapler, stapling the material every inch on the wall studs. After stapling, cut a slit in the fabric and attach a section of PVC pipe to the end of your hose (about 4’ is a good length). Stick the pipe into the wall and fill the upper part then the lower.

When using fiberglass, since the material does not produce the same amount of visual dust ², you can use the more inexpensive netting (i.e., 1/6 inch mesh). Again, the process is the same as cellulose above.

Rockwool is used to create a dense, sound deadening barrier. This is very commonly used to isolate home theater and sound studio walls. Often it is easier to find and install panels of rockwool, yet you can dense pack this as well with excellent results.

Dense Packing in Existing Construction

You will want to use a smaller diameter hose. I recommend a 1-1/2 inch hose that is 8 feet long. The larger diameter will minimize hose plugging and allow more material to flow making the job faster. Make sure that when you are reducing from 3 inches to 1-1/2 inches that you allow about 4 feet of reducing steps. Going from 3 inches to 1-1/2 inches in one step will make your job more prone to plugging the hose.

Drill a 2 1/2” or 3” hole into every insulatable³. cavity. Drill the hole close to the bottom sill plate. With existing walls, the process is a bit more difficult. You are blind to the material as it flows into the cavity. You are able to feel and see the insulation pack in the clear vinyl hose as it fills the cavity. Insert the vinyl hose, into the cavity and “snake” it up the wall. Cutting a 45 degree angle on the hose will allow it to go more smoothly into the wall system.

Notes