Tips and Tricks

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The Cool Machine is designed to be fixed easily with minor mechanical skills. This ease will help you, as a contractor, minimize equipment down-time in the field. Also, there is hardly ever a need for you to send your equipment away to a service center. This article describes the typical maintenance scenario of our machines.

Preventing Issues

Before we look into maintaining and fixing the CM1500, it is critical to consider the following so that you can prevent issues that create problems:

• Always use the right gauge of electrical cord to power your machine. It is tempting to use 100’ long standard extension cords to power the machine. While they will provide enough power to make the machine work, these extension cords build up heat and electrical resistance. Over time, this heat WILL damage the electrical components of your blowers and agitators. We recommend a 12 gauge wire to power the machine.
• Take great caution when you shovel material back into the machine. Material spills are notorious for hiding utility knives, nails and other foreign object which can damage the airlock seals. Be careful that the material you place into the machine is free of these objects.
• Consider using a lanyard for utility knives. I have yet to meet an insulator who has not lost a utility knife into the hopper. These can damage the airlock seals. Use a piece of string to prevent your loader from losing his knife in the hopper.

Cleaning the CM1500

We highly recommend emptying your machine of all material on a daily basis. Yet, we understand the reality of normal working conditions. We have protected the steel components with a powder-coated finish to prevent corrosion. Damp materials, left in the machine, over time, can degrade the lifespan of your machine. We recommend, before storing the machine after each day’s work, to clean out the material.

Those who perform wall spray will certainly want to empty their machine of the damp cellulose as it becomes corrosive.

To clean your machine, consider doing one of two things:

• Blow excess material into the attic at the end of your job. With our three-way remote, when the hopper empties, you are able to stop the agitator and let the blower continue to push the remaining material out of the airlock and hose.
• If your hopper is full, then leaving dry material in your machine for a few days will not compromise the life-span of your machine.
• If you do not use your machine on a daily basis, we strongly recommend that you empty your machine. A couple of 50 gallon garbage bags will provide ample storage for a full hopper. You are able to remove the material easily by loosening the quick connectors and removing the hopper to scoop the remaining material out from between the augers.

Maintaining the CM1500

Air Filter

Every machine has easy to remove dust filters located on the back of the unit. They are 3/4” thick, blue mesh filters that slip into a slot. No tools are necessary to remove or insert them. These filters must be cleaned frequently to allow the blower motors to easily bring in air.

The filter must be cleaned regularly when on job or when a significant build-up is noticed. Just brush a broom over the filter whenever the opportunity arises. Preferably when machine is shut down so you don’t drive the dust further into the filter from the blower suction. Filters are washable and can be more thoroughly cleaned by rinsing under sink faucet once a month. When using compressed air or water faucet, drive fibers from the inside surface outward.

For contractors who permanently keep their CM1500 mounted in a truck or trailer, Cool Machines offers an optional filter cover which lets you connect a 3” hose to go through the floor or wall of your transport. This eliminates the need to clean filters as the machine breathes from outside the dusty environment of a trailer/truck.

Augers and Shredders

Foreign debris is a common problem. Some, inferior cellulose products, contain pieces of plastic wrapping and assorted materials. Those loading the hopper, on occasion, will inadvertently drop plastic wrappings into the unit. Inspect the augers to make sure they are free of this debris.

Bearings

Lubricate the bearings every 3 months with Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 (GLC). The bearings are easily accessible. Two bearings are external. Three bearings are under the safety cover which is easily removed with two screws.

Chain

We use a nickel-plated, corrosion resistant chain. Even though it is a sturdy chain, make it a practice to do the following once a month to keep it in prime condition:

• Check the chain tension and keep it very taught.
• Lubricate every 3 months w/ ‘non-sticky’ lubricant. Note: a regular oil will cause excess fiber to stick and build-up on chains. Some of our customers use a motorcycle chain lube. Cool Machines uses Moly Chain lubricant, Grainger part# 5PE62.

Airlock Seals

Visually inspect the seals. Foreign objects can tear the seals. Tears allow air to escape back into the hopper resulting in diminished p.s.i. for dense packing and loss of production rate (bags per hour) on attics.

A Video on Maintaining the CM1500

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As the economy dips and gas prices rise, more people choose to enhance the insulation in their existing homes rather than purchasing new homes. Government credits and utility company discounts give homeowners an opportunity to afford adding more insulation. Not all insulating techniques result in the same performance. This article addresses two different techniques related to insulating existing exterior walls.

Blown Fiber Materials are Designed to be Packed

Cellulose, fiberglass and far less common, rockwool are all designed to be packed. When insulating material is not packed, it loses insulating performance. A recent study contrasted the difference between a wall that was gravity “packed” and one that was dense packed to 3.5 psi. The results are not surprising. The dense pack wall outperforms the gravity “packed” wall.  Why? Note the difference in insulating an existing wall.

Gravity “Packing”

The  word “packing” has quotes because this technique does not really involve packing. A hole is drilled into the uppermost part of the wall cavity. The insulator blows the material into the cavity, allowing the material to naturally fall into the cavity. The material fills the cavity, but there is no measurable packing density.

Unfortunately, this technique is quite popular. Even respected home remodeling shows demonstrate this technique. Will it improve an existing house’s insulating performance? Sure. But the insulating performance is inferior to the technique below. If the home has a brick exterior, gravity packing is nearly the only option. That is, unless the homeowner lets you drill holes inside their homes.

Problems with this technique:

• These cavities are inconsistently packed. There is no measurement of the density of the material falling into the cavity, so there is no way an insulator can control the flow of material. There is a lot of guess work. The wall cavity, at the hole will be packed with greater density than the rest of the cavity.
• These cavities often have voids. When the falling material hits a wire or plumbing that intersects the cavity, the material sometimes clumps on top of the obstruction and prevents a complete filling of the cavity.
• Fiber materials are prone to settling—cellulose especially. When installing loose fiber into a cavity, the air is increased to prevent hose blockages. After installation, the material will eventually settle, leaving a void at the top of the cavity.

Dense Packing

The best insulating standards involve packing fiber material with a minimum of 3.5 psi. Typically, a hole is drilled at the bottom of the wall cavity ¹. The insulation hose is reduced down to 2,” 1.5” or even 1.25” A clear vinyl tube is inserted into the hole. This hose is 10 feet long and allows the insulator to insert it into the cavity all the way to the top sill plate which guarantees that the insulation will not get hung up on obstacles. As the insulation packs into the cavity, the operator can see the material flow stop in the tube and will pull it out as it continues to pack the cavity.

The Cool Machine brand, has a gauge on the airlock which will give the installer a definitive PSI setting.

Advantages of this technique:

• The insulation is installed with a consistent density. The material at the top, middle and bottom of the cavity will have the same density.
• There is no guess work. The insulator will confidently be able to fill the cavity, knowing that there are no voids.
• The fiber materials, having been packed into the cavity, will not settle.
• The insulation performs to its full potential.

Footnotes

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Noise pollution is a constant problem. Houses are built by airports, train tracks and with the introduction of high-tech entertainment systems in homes, sound-control is very important. This is an introductory article that explains various insulating materials and techniques to help control sound that comes from the outside and within.

• Foam: Foam is a superior sound BARRIER product, however, it does not ABSORB sound. In fact, it amplifies noises within a structure.
• Rockwool: Rockwool is used in many professional sound studios because it creates a great BARRIER and it is a great ABSORPTION product. Typically, Rockwool can be found in sheets of various thickness which can be cut to fit the space. It is made up of industrial furnace slag and is fireproof.
• Cellulose: Cellulose is a great sound BARRIER product AND it is a great sound ABSORBTION product when it is installed into a wall cavity with a 3.5 (or greater) PSI density.
• Hybrid Foam/Cellulose: A recent trend is to spray a skim coat (1-2”) of foam into a cavity and then to fill the rest of the cavity with cellulose. This technique works very well. It provides a great BARRIER against outside noises while providing a sound ABSORBTION for the inside.
• Fiberglass: Like cellulose, is a great sound BARRIER and great sound ABSORBER when it is installed into a wall cavity with a 3.5 (or greater) PSI density or in high density batt form. ¹
• Air: Yes, air is a key component to creating a superior BARRIER. Some buildings have two walls with a gap between them. The isolated air pocket prevents the transmission of sound. Apartment buildings and hotels typically have two walls between each living compartment. Each wall is insulated with roughly a 2” gap between both.

The following X-Y graph shows where the materials roughly the best typical materials/techniques relating to both BARRIER rating (STC)² and ABSORBTION rating (NRC) ³.

Footnotes

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It is all in the gauge! Cool Machines come with an airlock gauge which tells you exactly how much pressure you are using to dense pack material into a wall system. We eliminate the guess work. Here is how to dense pack accurately.

How to set a Cool Machine’s PSI

Every Cool Machine has an airlock with a pressure gauge. A green indicator marks the acceptable dense pack ranges (3.5 to 4.0 PSI).

All you need to do is attach the amount of hose you need¹ for your particular job. Place the end of your hand over the end of the hose to cuff the air. Turn the blower on and using the variable control blower dial turn it up or down to gain the right pressure.

That is all! No special tools, measuring devices are needed. You get the exact pressure every time!

Choosing the Right Material for Dense Pack

Whether you use cellulose, fiberglass or rockwool, there are no special materials for dense packing. Companies tout particular material for various applications, however, standard insulating materials are sufficient. With dense packing, your concern is packing the material in at the correct PSI. When doing so, it does not matter whether you use a stabilized product or not. Do not concern yourself with paying for expensive products that include starch. Those materials create more dust and do not perform unless they are activated by water. Additionally, they are more expensive.

Some companies require certification training so you can use their product for dense packing. I do not make it a practice to speak negatively about any particular brand of insulation or machine. Therefore, I will not name them here. Just be aware that dense packing does not require any special certification. Maybe to use someone’s particular product, you need to pay for their training, however there are plenty of products available to all contractors whether you have training or not.

We have seen particular contractors require a brand-name system. Unless you can convince the contractor otherwise, you will have to meet their demands to win their project. Also, you may need certifications to perform certain government-sponsored jobs. However, generally-speaking, you do not need specialized certification.

Dense Packing in New Construction

Whether you use cellulose or fiberglass, the method is the same. You need to create a temporary “wall” to hold the insulating material in place and to resist bulging.

When using cellulose, you will definitely want to use a fabric material (i.e., Insulweb or IC Pro Pack). These fabrics are very sturdy and will prevent bulging when the appropriate PSI is used when dense packing. You will need to affix the fabric to the wall, using a pneumatic stapler, stapling the material every inch on the wall studs. After stapling, cut a slit in the fabric and attach a section of PVC pipe to the end of your hose (about 4’ is a good length). Stick the pipe into the wall and fill the upper part then the lower.

When using fiberglass, since the material does not produce the same amount of visual dust ², you can use the more inexpensive netting (i.e., 1/6 inch mesh). Again, the process is the same as cellulose above.

Rockwool is used to create a dense, sound deadening barrier. This is very commonly used to isolate home theater and sound studio walls. Often it is easier to find and install panels of rockwool, yet you can dense pack this as well with excellent results.

Dense Packing in Existing Construction

You will want to use a smaller diameter hose. I recommend a 1-1/2 inch hose that is 8 feet long. The larger diameter will minimize hose plugging and allow more material to flow making the job faster. Make sure that when you are reducing from 3 inches to 1-1/2 inches that you allow about 4 feet of reducing steps. Going from 3 inches to 1-1/2 inches in one step will make your job more prone to plugging the hose.

Drill a 2 1/2” or 3” hole into every insulatable³. cavity. Drill the hole close to the bottom sill plate. With existing walls, the process is a bit more difficult. You are blind to the material as it flows into the cavity. You are able to feel and see the insulation pack in the clear vinyl hose as it fills the cavity. Insert the vinyl hose, into the cavity and “snake” it up the wall. Cutting a 45 degree angle on the hose will allow it to go more smoothly into the wall system.

Notes

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Unless your home was built in complete accordance to the most current building standards, chances are you need more insulation. Older homes (built before 2001) may need more insulation. Even in some states (e.g., Michigan), building codes improved as late as 2006. They need more insulation EVEN if they were built to code prior to 2006. Before Michigan improved their standards, R-30 was required. Now, R-48 is required. You would need 6 more inches! You can use this handy tool to determine what your requirements are today.

Whether your house is new or old, check the following areas.

• Attic: Make sure the depth of the insulation meets or exceeds the recommended R-values. Is the access door insulated? Are knee walls (cathedral ceilings) insulated? Has insulation blown back away from the top rim joist due to poor blocking?
• Duct work: Is the ductwork sealed or leaking air into the attic? Has a bathroom vent duct separated? Is your ductwork covered with insulation or wrapped?
• If you have an older home, are your exterior walls insulated?
• Is the floor above unheated spaces (e.g., garage) insulated?

To better assess the existing insulation of homes, it is best to get the services of a qualified home energy auditor. A home energy audit will help determine the insulation needs of a home and will also help determine which parts of the home need to be air-sealed. Insulation is quite useless if the house is not 100% air tight.  A qualified energy auditor will be able to tell which parts of the house are not and should be insulated, type of insulation used and its R-value. Energy auditors often offer great incentives and will know what current energy credits are available to save you hundreds of dollars.

Home Energy Auditors perform the following services.

• Blower door testing: They remove your front door and create a vacuum with a fan (blower door) to see if (and where) your house is bleeding air.
• Combustion safety testing
• Combustion efficiency testing
• Gas Leak Detection
• Thermal Imaging: Using an infrared camera, auditors can identify hot and cold spots in your exterior walls to see exactly where your insulation needs upgrading.

Here are a few tips on how one can help conserve energy.

• Apply weather-stripping on doors and windows. This will provide a barrier between the movable and fixed sections of openings.
• Apply caulk or sealant around door and window frames, window sills and joints. Air leaks are easily identified during windy days. Light an incense stick to help identify leaks in vents, electrical outlets, around windows and doors.
• Close blinds and drapes during the night.
• Tinted window film is effective, especially in the southern states.
• If the house has large windows facing south, on sunny day, close the drapes or blinds to keep the sun out when the air conditioning is on.
• Keep furnace filters clean.
• Check your ductwork in your attic. Use mastic to seal the joints of your ductwork
• Make sure your ductwork is covered with insulation or wrapped.
• Turn off the lights when not in use.
• Use cold water when washing clothes.
• Run the washing machine and dish washer at night to avoid heating up the house during the day and the opposite during the winter months.
• Ceiling fans effectively move air. In the winter, reverse your fan blades to move the warm air from the ceiling down.
• Unplug electrical devices (e.g., battery/cell phone chargers) that are not in use as they draw electricity even when not in use.

Energy Auditors in Your Area

If you would like your site to be included below, please contact Barry.

Arizona

• Orangutan Home Services
• EMC: Energy Management Consultants

California

• Epic Design Build

Georgia

• Vis Viva Energy

Michigan

• Michigan Greenspace

New Jersey

• New Jersey Home Energy Solutions

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There is a a debate about whether cellulose or fiberglass is better. There is no debate that insulation must be installed properly. The cellulose industry highlights fiberglass as an inferior material due to gaps and compaction. A conscientious installer, whether cellulose or fiberglass will pay attention to those issues.

The following illustration shows a proper technique to installing fiberglass bats. To eliminate gaps, 94" material in a standard 8 foot wall. That allows a small tuck at the sill plates (A). The material (including vapor barrier) is tucked behind pipes and drains (B). This allows the interior warmth to keep pipes from freezing. A polyurethane foam is very effective to fill small spaces between studs (C), windows and doors. Tuck fiberglass and vapor barrier is behind electrical outlets to prevent air leaks. Since the fiberglass is compressed in this area, r-values are compromised. Surround the outlets with polyurethane foam (D) to bring the r-values back up and seal the plugs and wires from air leaks. Use foam to address the sill plates, corners, and other minor cracks (E).

Very few residential basements are free from moisture and damp. The elevation (or none) of the basement, method of wall construction, rising damp  and poor or no insulation are the  factors that make basement walls retain moisture. More often than not, a “wet” basement is of no consequence to the homeowners whereas a warm and dry basement could be put into good use.  Proper insulation of the basement walls is easy and the ensuing results quite useful. You and your family can put into good use a dry basement. A properly insulated basement could save you on electric bills.

BEFORE you insulate a basement with poured concrete formed walls, strongly consider letting the new construction sit for a year. Cement takes a long time to cure and can take up to a year for a poured wall.

Foam Board

Polyurethane foam board is an expensive, but effective solution for insulating your basement walls. It can be installed in a studded wall system or applied directly using coin-nails with a ramset.

Bubble Foil

Bubble foils insulation efficiently blocks heat as bubble foil acts as a radiant “fence” during the cold and hot seasons. Bubble foil has been tested and proven to act as a barrier to ward intensely high temperature.  Try to purchase coated bubble foil to obtain up to 3 coats of reflective sheet segregated by a thin synthetic net between each foil panel. This type of insulation is quite resistant to dirt as long as it’s not a single-covered bubble foil.  Application is very simple. Bubble foils come in rolls with adhesive back. All you need to do is roll out and measure the roll of foil, cut it to its desired size, then affix to the basement wall for insulation. Make sure the walls are free from dirt and moisture before installation.

Spray Foam

Spray foam insulation has the capability to last for a very long time as long as it is applied correctly.  Expanding foam insulation is great for sealing up walls and cavities in the basement and in the whole house itself.  This type of insulation is available in canisters with a spray nozzle for DIY job. For specialized application, special equipment is needed and more often than not, is done by professionals. Spray foam is available in a fast rise and slow rise formulation. It is made of a compound of polyurethane liquid that expands, dries and hardens as sealant.  Simple and easy-to-use spray foam in cans available at the local home depot can be used for basement walls and crevices insulation.

Fiberglass Batt

Fiberglass insulation is easy to install and effective. Fiberglass is composed of glass strands in a thick mat. In between the fibers are pockets of air. The glass strands are laid out in a random manner that there is no direct path through the mat for the hot air to pass through.  The installation of fiberglass mat is uncomplicated. Some brands come with peel-off back with adhesive. There are brands that come in rolls and need to be nailed into walls with the use of wooden casing.  Fiberglass is available in rolls and is coated with vapor barriers to ensure that the insulation is protected from moisture.

• Unfaced fiberglass: This requires that a wall be studded out to hold the fiberglass in place, or the basement was constructed using pre-fabricated cement forms with wood for applying facing materials. Do not cover the insulation with a non-permeable vapor barrier (i.e., polyurethane). The best alternatives are to use unfaced or kraft-faced insulation.
• Fire-resistant facing: This is available in rolls with a vinyl facing. It is applied to the wall using coins that are ramset into the foundation wall (assuming it is a concrete wall).
• Dense Pack: Again, this will require a studded wall. You can dense pack a wall with fiberglass. Do not use a non-permeable vapor barrier.

Cellulose Wall Spray

Cellulose is applied using a stabilized cellulose material. It is made of shredded newspaper to which starch (stabilizer) and borax (mold/insect inhibitor) are added. When sprayed, the starch is activated by water causing it to stick in a vertical wall. Due to the fact that water is added to this material, it is absolutely important that a few days are given for this material to dry out. Again, you do not need a vapor barrier for this material, if you do, do not use a non-permeable barrier.

The first question that you should ask yourself is whether your house is actually insulated.  Old homes, circa 1920s and up have double walling or cavity walls and large percentage of them (excluding homes that are less than 10 years old) have inadequate or no insulation at all.  Here are some telltale signs that your home is poorly insulated:

Click here to read more about Inspecting Your Insulation: What to Look for

If your home is a “freezer” during the colder months and an “oven” during the hot months, then your house is not properly insulated. Older homes are often not well insulated especially those with cavity walls. More often than not, older cavity walls do not have insulation at all. Warm air seeps out from the interior through cold spots while hot air seeps in from outside through cold spots too.   This has an effect on your heating and cooling bills making your home energy-inefficient.

Click here to read more about Installing Blown- In Insulation

If there is any doubt that NOW is the time to start an insulation company, then consider this real-life scenario! Eric, a homeowner in the Denver, Colorado area recently upgraded the insulation in his home. As a homeowner, he was restricted from insulating his home. He had to hire an insulation company. Here is how he ended up paying only $70 for a $700 job!

Click here to read more about How a Homeowner Saved 90% to Upgrade His Insulation!